Highlights of the Tour du Mont Blanc

TMB Trail 

• Completing the TMB from Les Houches to Les Houches, hiking over three international borders and completing the full official route on foot. Loved crossing the many mountain passes. The final two days were the most challenge from an endurance and exposure perspective. We did more scrambling and boldering than expected.  We were happy we did the final long descent (when it was done) skipping the cable car many other take.
• The scenery: fabulous mountain scenery, magnificent snowy peaks, high passes, pretty Alpine villages, farms, and the ever present Alpine cows in high meadows with their bells.
• Staying in the Refuges (Rifugios), a must do for a true Alpine experience and the opportunity to break bread with an international group of fellow hikers. We met some great people (like the three Australian physicians who were taking a year out of their specially training to travel the world or our Irish friend who bought us a celebratory aperitif our last day). Everyone we met was friendly, positive,  considerate, genuine. Hikers are the best people!!!!
•  The food: consistently fresh, tasty, and flavorful - and did we mention lots of cheese.
•  The Skyway cable car that  goes over the Mont Blanc massive from Courmayeur, Italy to Chamonix, France. It was truly spectacular. 
• Brilliant weather, sunny and warm with a couple of part days of light rain and one day hiking in fog (a neat experience even if we did miss some views).

What we wish we knew: Actually, not that much. Alpine Exploratory sent us a wealth of information in advance. However, for next time:

• We will book return transport in advance as we had a small issue when we learned express buses did not run Sunday.  It all worked out as we were able to "catch a ride"  with some fellow hikers as their private transport was not full. 
• Next time we will check out the Mont Blanc Skyway in more detail as we could have gone from the Italian/French border (summit) to the first French station at a moderate fee. If money is no issue you can go over the massive on the Skyway and catch a bus back through Mont Blanc tunnel.
• We will not be quite so conservative and will plan longer hikes on days we are staying in Refuges. It is pointless to get in too early as there is nothing to do but sit and wait until 7 pm dinner.  In retrospect we found that 8-9 hours hiking (6-7 hours moving) time is just about right leaving plenty of time for breaks, route finding, chatting to others on the trail etc. 
• Always remember to take soap to Refuges, some supply, some do not. 

Key points for others: 

• It is very simple to alter the TMB depending on your needs or the weather. Although we never needed to use them, we always had alternatives to shorten the route, walk at a lower elevation,  or eliminate most walking for the day.
• The TMB is doable as a single male or female.
•  The route is well signed. Some navigation skills are an asset and would be required in very low viability (heavy fog, snow). Interesting for us, the post signage always had the distance in time (i.e. 2 hours, 25 minutes). We could never understand what the source of the time measurement was but it seemed to work for us.
• There were many sources of potable or bottled water and food on the trail. All the Refugios serve food and drinks.    
•  We were able to communicate everywhere in English using only some very basic French words and phrases - mostly for courtesy.    

  

Geneva

We had a fun wind up day in Geneva, walking around the old city, with shops mostly closed for Sunday and outdoor cafes open. We walked (can't get enough walking) to the United Nations which has huge grounds, but unfortunately also closed. The lovely botanical gardens were free and open and had an interesting display of spirituality and nature. We found a three hour lake and dinner cruise which was a relaxing way to end the day - almost! It started to rain and by the time we were off the cruise and on and off the bus we were soaked, even with our rain coats. We are so fortunate we never had this heavy rain on the mountain trails. We fly home tomorrow - trying  to stay up late tonight so we can sleep in and get back on Alberta time.

Day 11 & 12 Hiking, Chamonix, France, and the end of the trail

Trail leaving Refuge de la Flegere

We are done: we walked well over 180K and climbed almost 10,000M; our knees, feet, endurance and the weather held out and we finished today in sunshine at Les Houches, the same village as we started.

The last two days have been challenging as we climbed 1860M and descended 2080M most of it up, around, and down rocky cliffs. Our route card said it was "one of the most exciting stages" and "true high mountain hiking". It was a test of our abilities as we had to go up ladders bolted to the cliff face, use metal steps driven into the rock, and hold onto chains on steep edges. It was always safe, just a bit daunting. Turning around was not an option. And, perhaps, this section is why most people do the TMB counterclockwise as otherwise we would be climbing down ladders and going down cliff faces diagonally. Feels better to go up. 

La Flegere

Last night we were in Refuge de la Flegere, our last mountain "hut",and  this one really quite basic. We had a co-ed room with a young couple from Calgary and a Irish man. The food was good: pasta, potatoes, cold cuts, and a choice of desert. Did we mention cheese with every course and one dessert option was cream cheese with black berry jam. Everyone was in bed by about 9:30 pm and all awake by 6 am. The floors and doors creaked! We could hear people talking (loudly) in the bathroom next door. So, we had an earlier start than usual.

It was a long long way down to the valley below

Today we climbed, for the first half of the day, on some of the most spectacular trails so far. We had unobstructed views of Mt. Blanc and managed some of the most exposure we have experienced on this trip, making our way to Col du Brevard and then over to Brevard where we could have taken a cable car to Chamonix. Instead we preserved and walked down, all 1570M (about the same elevation loss as going down to the bottom of the Grand Canyon) and that after over 700 M up. We are tired and pleased with completing the full Tour on the official routes! 

After finishing our hike in Les Houches, the starting place, we took a bus to Chamonex to our hotel with easy access to travel to Geneva tomorrow. We had a lovely dinner to celebrate tonight.

Argentiere, Sightseeing

A welcome change of scenery today, we shopped 'till we dropped" or at least until we had explored 95% of the shops in Chamonix, the tourist center of the Chamonix valley.

All public transit in the Chamonix valley is free for tourists. You get a "hotel card" from your hotel and you can ride buses and trains for no charge. We took a 20 minute train trip to Chamonix on the Mont Blanc express, which the lady at the front desk kindly told us "was not an express".

We hit every gear store in town, and they are all here - Salomon, Helly Hanson, Mamuet, Patagonia, and so the list went on. We have been seeing all the local hikers in a brand called Quechua (a French sports wear line): backpacks, clothing, shoes, all around us as we hike the alps. We were thrilled to find their store in Chamonix on a side street, and actually did some shopping (i.e. buying). They had the best prices and we can not get this brand at home.

We even hit the McDonalds, just to use the WC, but had to buy coffee to get a pass code for the privilege. The McDonald's blended into the local mileau with stone work and rustic chandeliers but  the menu was about the same. The prices also look the same as at home but, of course, we pay in euros. Our lunch, however, was in a little patio cafe followed by ice cream from a street stand.

We are back on the trail tomorrow, with two big back to back days to end the tour. We will be staying in a mountain Refugio, so, no post tomorrow.

Day 10 Hiking, Argentiere, France

One of many view of the Alps from the TMB

Alpine cows with their heavy bells

 with their heavy bellsToday, perhaps, was the most dramatic scenery we have seen out of ten days of spectacular scenery. We climbed 1100M to a high mountain ridge, traversed the ridge, and then descended 1160M to the valley below and the pretty village of Argentiere. The first part of the day, and 3/4 of the elevation gain, was climbing to Col de Balme. On arriving at Col de Balme we sat and had coffee at Refuge du Col de Balme with Mt. Blanc as the backdrop. From there we climbed up onto a ridge with more views of Mont Blanc and the surrounding snow covered peaks and glaciers. The route up to Col de Balme was busy with hikers, however once you get to the top there are multiple routes to choose from, and the groups soon disperse, some to hike higher and some to take a ski lift (telecabine) down. We needed to refer to the map and the compass and successfully found our route across the Aiguillette des Posettes (a ridge walk). In the Alps we hike up through alpine pastures listening to the ever present cow bells while looking ahead to snowy peaks and back to the chains of green valleys and pretty villages. In the Rockies we hike in a wilder wilderness, see fewer people, and seldom get caffe latte at the top of a pass.

It was good to arrive at Hotel de la Couronne a little after 4 this afternoon after 8 hours on the trail. We have another large twin room with a balcony and a view. Tomorrow we go sightseeing in the Chamonix valley. 

Day 9 Hiking, Trient

Another day, another 20K, another mountain ridge to climb and descend. The weather remained  sunny but not too hot, perfect really. Our trail today took us through a lot of forest, up and down, on packed sandy ground that was often very rocky. We left Champex and walked into a valley for about 6 kms before we started working on today's elevation.

Cows at de Bovine

At noon we arrived at Alpage de Bovine, a farm cafe. It was a bit disconcerting to get there through a herd of black cattle (? black Angus) that were sort of agitated, locking horns and fighting. The poster at the farm suggests these cattle are used for fighting competitions (who knew in Switzerland!).

It was a very popular spot, with picnic tables, and lots of clients. As the sign asked that you buy something to picnic, we obliged by getting tea and cake! We then ate our supermarket lunch of apples and cheese. There seemed to be some guided groups, and the usual collection of all ages. Later we met two Americans and had a long conversation about hiking in bear country. They suggested that the reason we do not see any wildlife, even birds, is because the trail is so busy.

Alpine barn

Bovine was about 15-20 minutes from the top of our climb, and once we reached the top, it was all downhill to our destination for the night, the tiny village of Trient with a wonderful pink church - really helps it stand out in the mountain landscape. We are staying at an Auberge, a type of guest house with half board (dinner and breakfast). We ordered cheese fondue for dinner -you really can't get too much cheese.

Big day tomorrow - they actually all feel like big days!

Champex Sightseeing

Lac Champex (there is a walking trail around the lake)

Today was another opportunity to step off the trail and explore a little bit more in this part of the alps. Champex, during the shoulder season, is very small, so we wanted to head further afield, getting a taste for the winding roads and countryside beyond what we can encounter walking.

School children at Roman ruins, Martigny

We settled on a trip to Martigny, a small city an hour away by bus, to see the St. Bernard museum. The history of the famous alpine dogs goes back to early Middle Ages when the monks who established the Mont Joie hospice on the St Bernard pass rescued travelers trapped by snow. The monks gave hospitality to all including Napoleon and his 50,000 troops on their way to invade Italy. The museum was a wealth of info, we learned, among other trivia, that Hannibal never took elephants over the alps. The museum also shelters St Bernard's and we got to tour their kennels.  Martigny is on the site of a Roman settlement and has many ruins including an amphitheater still in use today. It was fun to wander around a "regular" Swiss city that had few tourists.

We have to tell you about last nights dinner: the "Sunday night special at Hotel Spendide": we had Charcuterie (a cold meat plate) as an appy followed by Raclette. Raclette is a Swiss dish that goes back to the 1200s, a Raclette cheese round is broiled and the melted cheese is scraped onto a warm plate and served with a small boiled potatoes and pickles. The chef prepared it beside the table and waited whiled we had as many servings as we wanted (was it 3, 4, more.......).

We are back on the trail tomorrow.

Day 8 Hiking, Champex, Switzerland

Hikers on the TMB

To date we have hiked 116 K and climbed over 6000 M. Today, however, was, as described by our Routcard, "the least demanding of the tour", except for the mental challenge of route finding through villages. We hiked a mere 15.5 K and only climbed  500 M. No high passes to cross. We are now in the very pretty Swiss Val (vally) Ferret, the home of the famous St. Bernard Dogs.

We have been seeing the most fabulous vegetable gardens. The first was in the center of Courmayeur, both a vegetable and cut flower garden, complete with a little, bent over, old lady watering. Yesterday, in La Fouly, there was a garden with beautiful pumpkins. Today, we walked past several more, one even had black berries.

Our hotel, the Splendide, in Champex is quite spectacular. We have a huge room on the 3rd floor with two balconies looking out over the valley to snow covered peaks beyond. We have been very happy with all of the accommodation arranged by our tour company, Alpine Exploratory.

Our hike today took us on a long woodland trail with many wood carvings cut from tree trunks, all very quaint. There were deer, rabbits, mushrooms, a pig etc. etc.

Our water source for our daily hikes has been a series of water spouts running constantly into wooden or stone troughs. The water is potable but we do not know where it comes from. Just like we do not know what the Alpine cattle herders do with all the fresh milk everyday. We have heard there is a festival taking place after we leave, celebrating the cows coming down from the high pastures. Having walked through several of the herds, and listened to their bells even when we could not see them, it is a shame we will miss the event!

Tomorrow is sightseeing. We will hit the tourist office bright and early to plan our day!

PS: Late note - we learned that, during the summer, all the milk from the Alpine cows is made into cheese on site in "cheese factories" and stored in "cheese cellars". No wonder we have cheese  in several courses every meal.  

Day 6 & 7 Hikes, La Fouly

Jane in the doorway of our hotel in La Fouly

Just finished day 7 hiking, it was long, 22 K, 970 M elevation gain and 1400 M loss. We climbed up to Grand Col Ferrat (a saddle or dip in a mountain ridge) and started our first day hiking in Switzerland (the border was at the top of the Col). We hiked up into fog and drizzle, even a little snow and ice on the last of the Alpine flowers. We lost our great mountain views but the fog had its own beauty and our fellow hikers appeared and disappeared like ghosts. We often felt quite alone in the world. Twice, however, we found a place for hot tea, once at a Refugio and then at a farm cafe. Despite the weather we stayed on the mountain trails and did not resort to hiking down to the valley roads.

Back to yesterday, we left Courmayeur and hiked up about 700M, the first up of the day, then up some more. It is described as the toughest stage physically. We stayed on the traditional TMB (Tour Mont Blanc) balcony trail with fabulous views of the Mont Blanc summit and the wall of mountains on the SE face of the massive. We were able to watch the Skyway (cable car) in the distance for the first half of the day.

We spent our fourth night in yet another Refugio, Refugio Bonatti, the newest on the TMB, built in the late 90's, and very much like a back country lodge in the Rockies. It was very nice, very clean and we had a lovely twin private room.

Staying at a Refugio is very communal; it is where you create community on the trail. You see the same hikers. You get to eat family style with different people, and you share where you are from, and your other hiking experiences. It is in listening to where others hike, that you get your inspiration for the next hike. Many consider staying at a Refugio to be essential for a true "alpine experience". 

Refugio Lac Blanc

There are "rules" to staying at Refugio's.
1. No boots inside. Instead, you leave your boots in a boot room, and depending on the Refugio, you wear anything from crocs to felted clogs with edelweiss pins.
2. Assigned seating for dinner. You are always with your "party" so we are always together, but you get placed with other hikers which helps you meet your fellow travelers. Most of the tables seat 8.
2. Don't waste food - so far this has not been a problem. Last night's meal may have been the best so far. We were all excited to see salad as the first course (this was the first salad we have had). Then hot bean soup over croutons and a fontina cheese slice (I mention the cheese as this is the cheese of this region.) Then meatballs and grilled veggies, and fruit salad. This was an unusual Refugio meal based on our experience, because of the amount of fresh fruit and veg. While all the meals have been excellent, this was by far the best.
3. Help clear the table - at the end of each course, you scrap, pass, and stack your dishes with the rest of the table. All meals are a set menu and served family style. If the platter is set by you, another rule is that you serve the table - and you do your best get the quantities right.

Note to Catherine: We did take the sardine can cable car- as it was the only choice on the Italian side, there were only about 30 people even though the sign said "rated for 80", and, as the floor rotated 360 degrees around the center on the ascent and descent, we all had a great view. Also, just want to let you know that the fastest runner in the 2015 marathon did 160 K in the mountains in under 21 hours, the last person came in two days later, apparently having run non-stop.

Courmayeur

Mont Blanc from observation deck

Looking down to "Courmayeur

We met some Brits yesterday at Refugio Elizabetta who told us about the Skyway Mont Blanc, a cable car from Courmayeur that runs up and over the Mont Blanc massive to Chamonix, France. As this is our "sightseeing" day we had to go and it was fabulous, worth every euro. The trip to the top (and Italian border) cost 40 euro (32 euro for over 65!!). It would have cost another 160 euro to go to Chamonix and first we thought "those French" but then learned the cable car on the Italian side carries up to 80 people, the one on the French side carries 4! It was quite amazing, the observation deck at the top station was at 3466M (11371 feet), just 1350M below the Mont Blanc summit. You stand on the observation platform in your warmest jacket looking up at the summit and down on glaciers. We felt the altitude, and exposure, as we picked out yesterdays and tomorrow's trails across the valleys below .There was a lot to do at the two Italian stations: a crystal exhibit (Mont Blanc is one of the best places in the world for pink quartz), cafes and restaurants, gift stores, and an alpine garden with 900 species.

Tonight we are meeting some fellow hikers for dinner, then early to bed before our 1000 M elevation gain/hike up the mountain ridge tomorrow morning. Weather is getting a bit cooler but that makes for perfect hiking. No posts tomorrow as we will be at Refuge Bonatti, another alpine hut.

Day 2, 3, 4, & 5 Hikes - Refuge Bonhomme to Courmayeur, Italy

One of many water fountains on the TMB

Since the last time we blogged we have hiked over 50K, climbing almost 3,000M total elevation gain. Most of our elevation gain and loss has been crossing three saddles with the last one, the Col de la Seigne, a 2,516 meter border crossing into Italy.  All of our accommodation the past three nights has been in Alpine huts or Refuges (Rifugios in Italy). The word "hut" is deceiving as it does not describe accommodation for 75 or more people. Each had its own personality. And each has a range of accommodation which may include privater rooms, small dorms, or large rooms with a dozen or more mattresses laid side by side on a raised platform on each side.

A view on trail to Refuge Des Mottets

Our first, Refuge Bonhomme, was similar to a Canadian hostel with the addition of family style meals and a good selection of beer and wine. The second, Refuge des Mottets was like a back country lodge. We had a private room, crisp white sheets, a dining room decorated with antiques and post dinner entertainment (a barrel organ). We had three course meals served family style. Two rules we learned about walking the Tour de Mont Blanc: "do not waste food" and "help clear the table". The food was excellent: veg soup, roast pork, potatoes, local cheese, chocolate cake etc. The last, Rifugio Elisabetta, was a bit between, we had a private room with bunk beds but it was otherwise quite basic.

A beer on Refugio patio

Crossing into Italy - first view of Mont Blanc yet to come!

The highlight of the past days, and all the elevation gain and loss, was our first sighting of Mont Blanc, just past the Italian border. All scenery is consistently spectacular however snow covered Mont Blanc and it surrounding peaks is very dramatic. The weather has been sunny for the most part, with just one day of light rain.

Every hiker is on a different schedule. We added a day to the usual route, as we wanted to have a relaxing hike. The additional day ended up on a part of the route were there are only alpine huts, leaving us with a bit too much time to kill in places where there is nothing to do but walk. We are meeting people from just about everywhere, some are couples or small groups, others are hiking alone (including five women we have meet so far - interestingly the majority of this group of solo hikers intended to be completing the trail with someone who bowed out for a number of reasons).

Day 1 Hike - Les Houcehs to Les Contamines

TMB Route on Sign

One of many view on the TMB

Great start, we actually made the 20K and 900M climb in the time suggested by our route guide (6.5 hours). In fact we beat our luggage which arrived at our hotel over 2 hours later. We also beat the three men we met at breakfast, last we saw they were sitting in the shade of a wood shed (not that we are competitive!). We can't take all the credit as they were only using a 1:25,000 (10 cm =250m) map and we had a detailed route guide plus a map and compass.

The countryside is spectacular, we walked through little French villages with pretty chalets, flower baskets, climbing roses etc. Everything is lush and green. And then there is the backdrop of snow covered Alps.

We walked up mountain biking trails past ski lifts and left that behind when we crossed the Mont Blanc tramway and headed west into the next valley. It was sunny but a bit too warm, about 26-28 C.

Our hotel, the Gai Soleil

We were able to get a set dinner at our hotel for a good price, and it was fabulous: tomato soup, veal stew with carrots, mashed potatoes, and butter rum soaked cake. We notice food here is simple, fresh and flavorful.

We will not be posting until Wednesday as the next three nights are at mountain huts (refuges or rifugios) and we are unlikely to have internet. Besides, our iPads will go ahead in our luggage to be waiting at the next hotel. 

Les Houches, France

We are sitting in our charming little inn, very French Alps chalet style, looking out on the Mont Blanc massive. Spectacular. Dinner was Crouette (a local baked bread and cheese dish) with green salad and ham. We ate on a sidewalk patio with front row seats for the 2015 ultra trail du Mont Blanc (a 120k run) with over 2000 participants listening to the crowd cheer everyone off. Interesting that they start in the evening. We think it is just as well no one lines up to cheer for the walkers. Getting here was easy, we are in Europe and public transportation is fast and simple. We quickly  left Switzerland behind passing into France just outside Geneva. We have not seen any of the famous alpine dairy cows yet, just one village after another. We found tomorrow's start point, after the first 100 meters or so we will start up the first, of many, mountain ridges.

Geneva

It is 1030 pm, 28C, we are sitting outside in our hotel patio with a beverage. It has been quite the day as we have touched ground in four countries, one by accident. We thought we could save by taking a hotel shuttle, seemed easy, until we discovered that there is more than one "airport" Novatel hotel. Unfortunately, we got the shuttle to the one across the boarder in France, where we did not have a reservation. We are now safely at the Geneva Novatel hotel, which had our reservation, planning tomorrow's travel to the kick off point - Les Houches in either France or Switzerland TBD! Fortunately there is a big mall and bus stop across the street.

Waiting to leave

Flight delayed 20 minutes. That seems to be how it goes when you arrive at the airport 2+ hours in advance. We shopped both news outlets, had tea at Starbucks, bought magazines and water and are looking forward to sleeping all the way (OK - some of the way). Had the chance to upgrade to a first class cubby for $900. Tempting! Stay tuned, next post Geneva.

The next long walk

On August 26 we leave Calgary for Geneva to start our most ambitious hike yet, the Tour du Mont Blanc. We will cross three international borders, walk at least 180 kilomters, and climb and descend close to 10,000 meters over  two weeks taking a few days off to enjoy small alpine villages in Switzerland, Italy and France. We will post when we can, that is when we have WiFi. Some of the time we will be staying in remote mountain huts or "Rifugios" where we will be served supper and breakfast but may not have the luxury of Internet. Other times we may be in world renowned alpine climbing centers with equipment shops on every corner and cable cars zipping tourists up the slopes.  Our accommodation has been booked through Alpine Exploratory in the UK who have provided us with a detailed itinerary, directions, contacts and route cards for every hike, We expect to get a few sore muscles but the amazing scenery, great food and a new adventure will be all the compensation anyone could ask for. 

Day 17: October 28, Highlights of our Israel and Jordan Trip

Highlights of our Israel and Jordon Trip (in no particular order):

• Walking 80 K on the 65 K Jesus Trail;
• Fabulous meals at Yarok Az Eco Lodge,  Arbel Guest House,  Peggy and Hertzel's home, and with Ali in the dessert;
• The unique accommodation at Yarok Az;
• The garden at the Arbel Guesthouse;
• The descent down the cliff face at Mount Arbel;
• Experiencing the Old City of Jerusalem;  
• Staying at the Sisters of Notre Dame de Sion convent in Jerusalem;
• Climbing the snake path at Masada before dawn to see the sunrise over Jordan and the Dead Sea;
• Hiking in Ein Gedi;
• Floating in the Dead Sea;
• Spending time with cousins Peggy and Hertzel and their son Roz and his wife Shay;
• Hiking in the dessert and looking for treasures with Peggy;
• Petra, especially climbing to the Monastery;
• Wadi Rum with our driver and nature/mountain guide/chef Ali; and
• Relearning that some of the best experiences are the ones you do not plan.

What we learned from this experience

• Mark all trail updates on your map;
• Never assume hikers in front of you are on the same trail;
• Closed for Shabbat really means closed for Shabbat.

Day 16: October 27, Tel Aviv

View of Tel Aviv

A relaxing fun day to end our trip. Tel Aviv is an eclectic city with a European flair. A mix of tall modern hi rises, winding little side streets and markets. We walked out to the Mediterranean to start the day and headed down the promenade to Jaffa,  a 40 minute walk. Just outside of Jaffa we met people fishing from the promenade.

Jaffa is like an artist colony with many people selling their work from their studios. We spent several hours walking up and down the old narrow alleys, admiring lots of jewelry, clothing, pottery and paintings. After a quick bite to eat in a beautiful food stall market building, we walked back on the beach, through the surf to the street that leads to the Carmel Market.

The Carmel Market is mainly a food market with beautiful looking fruit, veg, spices, with some fish stalls. We then went back to the beach in the other direction and found the US embassy and a bar with an ocean view for our last beer in Israel. We watched the sun go down over the Mediterranean then covered a lot of ground looking for the perfect bistro for supper. We reluctantly picked an Italian restaurant, not sure it was the right choice for our last Israeli meal, but it turned out quite lovely. We have an early start to the airport in the morning and should be in Calgary by 11 pm tomorrow.

Carmel market

Mediterranean sunset

Day 15: October 26, Eilat to Tel Aviv

Right now, at this moment, we are sitting on the rooftop patio of our little 12 bedroom hotel in Tel Aviv looking out at the city lights around us. Getting here took most of the day and was an education in logistics. For future reference, try to avoid  traveling in Israel by public transport from Friday sundown to Saturday sundown as it can be a little frustrating.

Last night we arrived in Eilat just after sundown having just missed the ticket office at the bus station. The phone reservation service had also just closed and would not reopen until sundown Saturday. However, the bus station opened at 10am and the ticket office opened at 11am at which point the first bus to Tel Aviv, the 11:30, was sold out. In fact, all the buses until 4pm were sold out.

The trip to Tel Aviv is 5 hours and a few minutes. We bought tickets for the 4 pm bus and then tried to talk our way onto the 11:30 bus with no luck, as there was quite a few "stand bys" ahead of us. We tried this again at the 1pm bus and the driver finally let us on saying we would have to stand the whole way (we agreed but immediately found empty seats). Not sure how it all works since we still don't know much Hebrew but at one point the bus driver stopped the bus and told us all to figure it out, or at least that is what we think he said. Several people were upset, some telling us to stay sitting, several men trying to give up their seats for us (we think). In the meantime the driver continued to pick up passengers along the highway until there were 7 people sitting in the aisle and 3 on the  steps. We were too scared to get out at the first rest stop as we didn't want another seating incident but did brave the second stop. While this all sound terrible un-Canadian we were not the only ones with tickets for other times.

Once we arrived we followed Peggy's instructions to get out of the incredibly busy central bus station and walked for about 40 minutes to our cute little hotel. The receptionist sent us to the local pub for dinner and it was excellent, potato soup and a cooked vegetable plate with couscous. And of course, a beer. We seem to be in a trendy neighborhood near the Carmel market with lots of young people out walking and sitting at the bistros. The weather is mild, maybe 20-22degrees, a little cooler but mugger than the south. One more day, till we are flying home, to explore Tel Aviv.

Day 14: October 25, Petra to Eilat via Wadi Rum

Wadi Rum viewpoint

Baby camel came too!

Lunch with Ali

Wadi Rum is a huge national park. Wadi means dry river bed and Rum means a high place; the altitude is about the same as home. We spent the day driving across the sandy desert and between high rocky sandstone mountains, with our guide Ali, a couple from Belgium, and a man from Paris. It was mesmerizing and starkly beautiful. We stopped at viewpoints, petroglyphs, arches, an ancient well, ancient foundations, and sand dunes. Ali was well educated and had been an officer in the Jordanian army for 16 years. As one of his friends said, he is not just a driver, he is a mountain guide.

Ali was also our chef, creating 3 salads, roasted vegetables and chicken on a fire of twigs and briquettes. It was delicious as we all sat around on a carpet Bedouin style.

For most of the day it felt like the 6 of us were alone in the desert, only occasionally seeing another vehicle. At one stop there were two Bedouin and 5 camels and we both had a short (about 1/4 mile) camel ride across the sand - our own mini caravan, the Bedouin guide, two camels and one baby. We also had sweet cinnamon tea in a Bedouin tent/ souvenir store. It is hard to compare this day with Petra, one was the majesty of ruins built 2000 years ago, the other a wild, empty and dramatic landscape.

Ali drove us back to the border along the Kings Highway - lots of trucks moving supplies in and out of the port of Aqaba. Our tour company again met us, shepherded us through the border (although it seemed very straight forward, at least for us Canadians) and then drove us to our hotel. We walked down to the beach and sat drinking a beer and watching the lights twinkle on the Gulf of Aqaba. Tomorrow it is a long bus ride to Tel Aviv.