Day 2, 3, 4, & 5 Hikes - Refuge Bonhomme to Courmayeur, Italy

One of many water fountains on the TMB

Since the last time we blogged we have hiked over 50K, climbing almost 3,000M total elevation gain. Most of our elevation gain and loss has been crossing three saddles with the last one, the Col de la Seigne, a 2,516 meter border crossing into Italy.  All of our accommodation the past three nights has been in Alpine huts or Refuges (Rifugios in Italy). The word "hut" is deceiving as it does not describe accommodation for 75 or more people. Each had its own personality. And each has a range of accommodation which may include privater rooms, small dorms, or large rooms with a dozen or more mattresses laid side by side on a raised platform on each side.

A view on trail to Refuge Des Mottets

Our first, Refuge Bonhomme, was similar to a Canadian hostel with the addition of family style meals and a good selection of beer and wine. The second, Refuge des Mottets was like a back country lodge. We had a private room, crisp white sheets, a dining room decorated with antiques and post dinner entertainment (a barrel organ). We had three course meals served family style. Two rules we learned about walking the Tour de Mont Blanc: "do not waste food" and "help clear the table". The food was excellent: veg soup, roast pork, potatoes, local cheese, chocolate cake etc. The last, Rifugio Elisabetta, was a bit between, we had a private room with bunk beds but it was otherwise quite basic.

A beer on Refugio patio

Crossing into Italy - first view of Mont Blanc yet to come!

The highlight of the past days, and all the elevation gain and loss, was our first sighting of Mont Blanc, just past the Italian border. All scenery is consistently spectacular however snow covered Mont Blanc and it surrounding peaks is very dramatic. The weather has been sunny for the most part, with just one day of light rain.

Every hiker is on a different schedule. We added a day to the usual route, as we wanted to have a relaxing hike. The additional day ended up on a part of the route were there are only alpine huts, leaving us with a bit too much time to kill in places where there is nothing to do but walk. We are meeting people from just about everywhere, some are couples or small groups, others are hiking alone (including five women we have meet so far - interestingly the majority of this group of solo hikers intended to be completing the trail with someone who bowed out for a number of reasons).