Day 6 & 7 Hikes, La Fouly

Jane in the doorway of our hotel in La Fouly

Just finished day 7 hiking, it was long, 22 K, 970 M elevation gain and 1400 M loss. We climbed up to Grand Col Ferrat (a saddle or dip in a mountain ridge) and started our first day hiking in Switzerland (the border was at the top of the Col). We hiked up into fog and drizzle, even a little snow and ice on the last of the Alpine flowers. We lost our great mountain views but the fog had its own beauty and our fellow hikers appeared and disappeared like ghosts. We often felt quite alone in the world. Twice, however, we found a place for hot tea, once at a Refugio and then at a farm cafe. Despite the weather we stayed on the mountain trails and did not resort to hiking down to the valley roads.

Back to yesterday, we left Courmayeur and hiked up about 700M, the first up of the day, then up some more. It is described as the toughest stage physically. We stayed on the traditional TMB (Tour Mont Blanc) balcony trail with fabulous views of the Mont Blanc summit and the wall of mountains on the SE face of the massive. We were able to watch the Skyway (cable car) in the distance for the first half of the day.

We spent our fourth night in yet another Refugio, Refugio Bonatti, the newest on the TMB, built in the late 90's, and very much like a back country lodge in the Rockies. It was very nice, very clean and we had a lovely twin private room.

Staying at a Refugio is very communal; it is where you create community on the trail. You see the same hikers. You get to eat family style with different people, and you share where you are from, and your other hiking experiences. It is in listening to where others hike, that you get your inspiration for the next hike. Many consider staying at a Refugio to be essential for a true "alpine experience". 

Refugio Lac Blanc

There are "rules" to staying at Refugio's.
1. No boots inside. Instead, you leave your boots in a boot room, and depending on the Refugio, you wear anything from crocs to felted clogs with edelweiss pins.
2. Assigned seating for dinner. You are always with your "party" so we are always together, but you get placed with other hikers which helps you meet your fellow travelers. Most of the tables seat 8.
2. Don't waste food - so far this has not been a problem. Last night's meal may have been the best so far. We were all excited to see salad as the first course (this was the first salad we have had). Then hot bean soup over croutons and a fontina cheese slice (I mention the cheese as this is the cheese of this region.) Then meatballs and grilled veggies, and fruit salad. This was an unusual Refugio meal based on our experience, because of the amount of fresh fruit and veg. While all the meals have been excellent, this was by far the best.
3. Help clear the table - at the end of each course, you scrap, pass, and stack your dishes with the rest of the table. All meals are a set menu and served family style. If the platter is set by you, another rule is that you serve the table - and you do your best get the quantities right.

Note to Catherine: We did take the sardine can cable car- as it was the only choice on the Italian side, there were only about 30 people even though the sign said "rated for 80", and, as the floor rotated 360 degrees around the center on the ascent and descent, we all had a great view. Also, just want to let you know that the fastest runner in the 2015 marathon did 160 K in the mountains in under 21 hours, the last person came in two days later, apparently having run non-stop.